L & D's Great Adventure: Bhutan, the Kingdom of Happiness

While researching Nepal, we first learned about the small Himalayan country of Bhutan. The country, with a population of just 700,000, is predominantly Buddhist and is famous for creating the concept of "Gross National Happiness", where they seek to maximize their society's overall level of well-being (as opposed to more traditional objectives of maximizing economic growth).

Gross National Happiness is measured annually based on a survery given to every Bhutanese citizen. It assesses well being across four key pillars: sustainable development, preservation of culture, conservation of the natural environment and establishment of good governance. You can clearly see the impact of this social policy on the country. Over 70% of Bhutan remains protected forest lands, despite willing buyers for their natural resources in their neighbors to the north (China) and south (India). In order to preserve their culture, tourism is limited by high tourist visa fees ($250 per person per day for non-Indian visitors), and Bhutanese continue to dress in their traditional clothing of Ghos for men and Kiras for women. You won't find any shops selling touristy junk in Bhutan - you'll have the luxury of experiencing a place that is basically untouched by tourism.

That doesn't mean, however, that Bhutan hasn't modernized. One of the most fascinating aspects of Bhutan is the juxtaposition of the old (traditional clothing, architecture, police-managed intersections, etc) with the new (high rises in Thimpu, the prevalence of smart phones, access to foreign goods, etc).

Many of you might have taken a double-take when reading that the tourist visas cost $250 per person per day. It's a steep price, but it includes everything you need for your stay - your hotel, meals, and a private guide and driver, who will accompany you for the duration of your stay. The quality of the accommodations in Bhutan are generally quite good, though you also have the option of paying a supplemental fee to stay at one of the countries' several five star hotels, which include Como and Aman resorts. Some people also choose to do trekking in Bhutan. The daily fee of $250 per person still applies, but for that, you'll receive a caravan of people and supplies, which might include a guide, a porter, a cook, an assistant cook, a couple donkeys, and your food and gear.

Due to the tourist visa requirements, setting up a trip to Bhutan requires using a tour agency for your booking. We booked directly with a local agency in Bhutan called Namgay Adventure Travels. The travel agents in Bhutan are heavily regulated, so they are generally very professional, much better than your average Nepalese agency. We put together a 7-day itinerary that was focused on Bhutanese culture and natural beauty, with opportunities for some day hikes along the way. Our itinerary included stops in the capital city of Thimpu, the more remote Gangtey Valley, the beautiful Punakha Valley and Paro, where we visited the famous Tiger's Nest Monastery. After Nepal, we were looking for a bit of comfort, so we chose to upgrade our hotels in Punakha and Paro to the 5 star Como hotels.

This is a pretty typical 7-day itinerary for a first visit to Bhutan. Note that the roads in Bhutan are terrible - very windy and often unpaved. If you get car sick, you'll definately need medication here. In retrospect, we tried to cover too much ground during our week there. If we were to do it again, we would focus our visit in Thimpu, Paro and Punakha. Gangtey was beautiful, but the driving required to get there was brutal for such a short stay.

We also wanted to send a special thank you to Sophy Roberts, who graciously reached out to her friends at Como to get us VIP treatment during our stays at UMA Punakha and UMA Paro.

Day 1: Paro to Thimpu

The only international airport in Bhutan is in Paro, so this is where we started our Bhutanese adventure. We flew from Kathmandu on Bhutan's national carrier Druk Air. Druk means "thunder dragon" in Dzongkha, Buthan's national language, and is the symbol for the country. Immediately upon landing, we noticed that the airport was built in the traditional Bhutanese style that is typical of all structures in Bhutan (even the multi-story office buildings). The airport sits in the Paro Valley, surrounded by lush green forests and mountainous terrain. It's a very serene and beautiful setting - such a change from Kathmandu!

Our guide, Kinga, and driver met us outside the terminal as we cleared customs. They drove us about 45 minutes to our hotel in the capital city of Thimpu. On the way, we stopped by one of the few remaining iron chain bridges, built in the 1300s.

Arriving from Kathmandu on Druk Air

Paro International Airport

Visiting a 900 year old iron chain bridge on the way to Thimpu

Day 2: Thimpu

The capital city of Thimpu is the best example of Bhutan old traditions coming face to face with a bustling, modern town. Though not a metropolis by any stretch, the city is the most populous in Bhutan with about 100,000 people. Construction seems to be everywhere, with several large multi-story buildings being raised around the perimeter of the town. These are all, of course, in the original Bhutanese style with intricate woodwork around the roofs and along the sides of the buildings. Most citizens continue to wear the traditional Bhutanese clothing. As we drove into town, Kinga explained that we were on the country's only multi-lane road as we drove along a short couple-mile stretch of highway in the center of town. He also took us to see the busiest intersection in town, where local residents objected to recent installation of the country's only stoplight. In response, the city took the traffic light down and rebuilt a small post where a traffic cop manages the traffic throughout the day and night.

Thimpu, Bhutan's capital city

Main intersection in town

Thimpu Market

Vegetable section of the Thimpu market

The Bhutanese love their chilies

Taste testing the different bananas in the market - the small ones were best

In Thimpu, we were first introduced to Bhutanese food. The cuisine is based around rice and fresh vegetables, with the occassional appearance of meat (it shows up more for tourists to suit their tastes). The most popular dish in Bhutan is called Ama Datse and is made from fresh local chilies with melted cheese. The cheese reminded us a bit of velveeta, but it's actually quite tasty.

Spread of Bhutanese dishes - this was at a tourist restaurant so it's more varied than what the typical Bhutanese would eat at a meal

Ama datse, or chili cheese

Day 3 - Thimpu to Gangtey
Day 3 was our longest driving day, requiring a very rough 5 hour drive from Thimpu to Gangtey, the winter home of the endangered black neck cranes. On the way, we stopped at the Dochu-La Pass to see the famous 108 stupa monument dedicated to the Bhutanese victory over an Indian rebel group that had sought shelter in the country and refused to leave. There is also a beautiful monastery at the pass built by the current king's mother that is worth a visit.

Hanging in the trees around the pass are thousands of prayer flags - a common sight in the Himalayas. Kinga explained to us that the prayer flags are hung in high, windy places. The person hanging the flags makes a prayer for each flag raised. As the wind blows the flag, those prayers and the mantras written on the flags are carried into space to spread good will and compassion to all. As flags decay in the elements, new flags are hung, just as life ends and is replaced by new life. The flags are made in 5 colors - white, blue, red, yellow and green - representing the five basic elements.

Monument to the victory over the Indian rebel group

Enjoying the views of Bhutan's highest mountains from the monument

Another view of the monument

Druk Wangyel Monastery at Dochu-La Pass

Monastery at Dochu-La Pass

Prayer flags at the Pass

View of traditional houses and farms along the route to Gangtey

After passing through the Punakha Valley, we started our ascent towards Gangtey. This village is famous for being the home to many of Bhutan's architects.

View of the Punakha Valley

Wild marijuana. It's illegal to smoke this in Bhutan, but the farmers give it to their pigs to fatten them up.

Entering the Gangtey Valley as the sun is setting

Local farmers in the Gangtey Valley

Traditional ranch homes in the Gangtey Valley

The Dewachen Lodge - our home for a night in Gangtey

The lodge was basic but comfortable, with great views of the valley.

The highlight of the day was visiting a local family in Gangtey

Preparing the traditional hot stone bath

The stones are placed in the water after being heated in the fire

So relaxing after a long day of driving

Enjoying tea with the family

Day 4 - Gangtey to Punakha

We awoke early on Day 4 to enjoy a walk through the Gangtey Valley, where we had several encounters with the famous black-necked cranes. We also encountered a group of locals partaking in Bhutan's national pastime, archery. Two groups of about a dozen locals stood about 200 yards apart firing their arrows toward two small targets positioned alongside each of the teams. It was great fun to hear the teams yell insults at each other after each shot was fired.

The locals playing a Sunday game of archery

Targets were placed about 100 yards away from each other ... we didn't see anyone hit the target in about 40 minutes of watching the teams play against each other.

On our hike in the Gangtey Valley

The famous black necked cranes

A black necked crane takes flight

Hike through the valley

The monastery marked the end of our hike

After the hike, we headed towards Punakha, stopping at Chimi Lhakhang along the way, which is a famous temple that was built in the 15th century on a site where a Buddhist saint named Drukpa Kunley was said to have subdued a demon with his phallus. Also known as the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley was famous for using sex as a means of teaching Buddhism. He famously carried a wooden phallus, modeled after his own. Today, Chimi Lhakhang is known as the Fertility Temple, attracting female visitors from all over the world hoping that a blessing can aid their efforts to have children. Preparing to start our own family, Lindsay and I requested a fertility blessing from the local monk. The monk chanted some things in his local language and then gently touched our foreheads with Drukpa Kunley's wooden phallus and sword. I am confident that it will be the only time in our lives when a monk places a wooden phallus on our foreheads.

Terraced rice fields along the road towards Punakha

Images of phalli on the walls of a handicraft shop next to the Fertility Temple. Drukpa Kunley used images such as these to ward off demons.

Lindsay on the walk to Chimi Lhakhang

Rice recently harvested from the patties surrounding Chimi Lhakhang

View of the temple from the walking path

Another view of the temple. The chorten in the foreground was built by Drukpa Kunley and pre-dates the temple.

Local villagers making crispy rice near the temple

After our visit to Chimi Lhakhang, we continued to Punakha where we stayed at one of our favorite hotels of the trip, the UMA Punakha. The hotel was beautiful, perched high above the Punakha Valley and built in a great zen style. The service and food were outstanding, the best we experienced in our week in Bhutan.

Entrance to the Uma Punakha

Amazing floor to ceiling windows in the lobby

View of the Uma Punakha terrace

View of the Punakha Valley from the terrace

Enjoying a delicious dinner on the terrace next to our warm fireplace

Beet salad

Cauliflower soup

Chicken with pomegranate

Leg of Lamb

Chocolate cake

Panna cotta

Day 5 - Punakha

We had a wonderful Day 5 exploring the Punakha region. We started our day with a delicious morning breakfast on our terrace at the hotel, with spectacular views of the misty Punakha Valley. It was a busy agenda for the day - we started with a 45 minute hike up to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal temple, then visited the imposing Punakha Dzong fortress, had a picnic lunch in the shade of the national forest, and visited a local Buddhist institute where we chatted with one of the senior monks.

Enjoying misty morning views from the terrace while eating breakfast

Khamsun Yulley Namgyal temple is actually visible from the UMA Punakha - just across the valley about 10 minutes away by car. The hike to the temple takes about 45 minutes and offers some of the best views of the Valley you can find anywhere. The four-story temple was built over a period of 9 years by the Queen Mother and is a beautiful showcase of Bhutanese art, architecture and religious culture. Although we weren't allowed to take photographs inside the temple, we were able to get some great shots from the roof of the temple.

View of Khamsum Yulley Namgyal from the Valley floor

The hike began by crossing a suspension bridge covered with prayer flags

After 45 minutes hiking, we arrived at Khamsum Yulley Namgyal

The temple was a beautiful 4-story structure

The temple was surrounded by stupas and impressive hand carved sculptures

This beautiful wooden statue was facing the temple

View of the Punakha Valley from the top of Khamsum Yulley Namgyal

After our hike, we headed up river about 40 minutes to Punakha Dzong, Punakha's administrative center and one of Bhutan's most impressive buildings. The Dzong was built in the 17th Century and was formerly the seat of the Bhutanese government until it moved to Thimpu in 1955. The Dzong sits majestically at the confluence of the Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) rivers against a mountainous backdrop.

Punakha Dzong

Bridge at the entrance of Punkha Dzong

The entrance to Punakha Dzong

Temple inside the Dzong grounds - only for monks and the royals

Painting of the wheel of life at the Buddhist temple in the Punakha Dzong

At the confluence of the Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) rivers, with Punkha Dzong behind

For our afternoon, we drove into the mountains to visit the Nalanada Buddhist Institute, where we had a fascinating conversation with Sonam Tshewang, a Buddhist monk. After spending three weeks among Buddhists (first in the Khumbu region of Nepal and then in Bhutan), we had lots of questions, and Sonam patiently answered all of them. On the way to the Institute, we stopped at a beautiful spot along the road to enjoy a picnic lunch.

Enjoying a picnic on the way to the Buddhist institute

Nalanda Buddhist Institute

Words of wisdom

Nalanda Buddhist Institute

Young monks memorizing their scripture

Our new friend, Sonam Tshewang

Upon returning to the hotel, we were greeted with an upgrade to a 1-bedroom villa. We took advantage by doing dinner on our private terrance - a great way to end a fantastic day.

We were upgraded to the one bedroom villa

Bedroom with a view

View of the Punakha Valley from our private terrace

Feasting on hamburgers on our private terrace

Day 6 - Punakha to Paro

Our last stop in Bhutan was Paro, where we visited the famous Tiger's Nest monastery. On the way to Paro, we stopped in Thimpu at the Buddha Dordenma, one of the world's largest Buddha statues. The Buddha is made from bronze with gold plating and is almost 170 feet high. Upon entering Paro, we got some great shots of the impressive Dinpung Dzong, where Punakha's admistrative offices and monastic body are based.

On our way to Paro, we captured another classic scene of Bhutan - a villager ploughing his fields using cattle

Buddha Dordenma statue

Greetings from Bhutan!

Rinpung Dzong in Paro

Rinpung Dzong at sunset

Day 7 - Tiger's Nest

Paro Taktsong, or Tiger's Nest, clings the side of a steep rock face like something you've only seen in National Geographic. The temple complex was built in the 17th century around the cave where one one of Bhutan's most revered Buddhist saints (who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan), Guru Rinpoche, meditated in the 8th century. Legend has it that he was carried to this location on the back of a flying tigress. A 90-120 minute hike is required to reach the temple.

Tiger's Nest is located on the middle rock face, about 3/4 of the way to the top

Lindsay and our guides

Sign at the start of the path to Tiger's Nest

View of Tiger's Nest from the early part of the trail

Half way there!

Hanging prayer flags below the temple

Tiger's Nest

After hiking to the temple, we had the chance to try on some traditional clothing and test our archery skills. It was lots of fun and the perfect ending to our Bhutan adventure.